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DECOTIME, INC. Cabinet Rescue®
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Cabinet Refacing In A Can® Waterborne Acrylic Laminate Finish
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Tips for painting laminated and solid wood kitchen cabinets as well as a list of recommended application tools and paint sundries for a kitchen cabinet project
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Painting kitchen cabinets made from solid wood (not laminated) that may have an original factory applied lacquer or varnish finish or have been previously painted with an enamel
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1. Follow all of the recommendations listed above for laminated surfaces to identify and number door locations, cleaning, dulling the surfaces by sanding and protecting walls and ceilings.
2. Chips in wood requiring repair prior to painting should be filled with an appropriate wood filler, sanded smooth and primed to avoid blemishes from showing through the final paint job.
3. All stained and/or bare wood surfaces previously coated with shellac, varnish, lacquer or polyurethane must be primed with a stain blocking primer BEFORE applying Cabinet Rescue® a pigmented (white) oil/alkyd based primer is recommended.
DO NOT use a shellac based stain blocking primer under Cabinet Rescue® as it may cause "cracking" in the finish coat.
4. Allow the primer to THOROUGHLY dry, then sand smooth before proceding to apply the first coat of Cabinet Rescue®. Do not sand "through" the primer as to expose underlying shellac or lacquer finishes as this will cause the finish coat to crack in those areas.
5. All previously painted or enameled wood surfaces should be tested for compatibility. Apply Cabinet Rescue® over a small test area first. If Cabinet Rescue® crawls, cracks or dries to an irregular sheen then priming with an oil based stain blocking primer is required. Prime, let primer dry and sand to a smooth finish before proceeding.
6. Apply Cabinet Rescue® as per label instructions by using a brush, roller or combination of both to achieve the best and even coverage.
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Recommended tools and sundries for a cabinet refinishing project A MUST HAVE
* A cleaning solution of choice to cut through grease, grime, oil and dirt on cabinets. A flammable solvent cleaner IS NOT recommended.
* #220 or #320 wet/dry sandpaper or emery cloth for laminated surfaces (6 to 8 sheets), or medium/fine garnet sandpaper for wood surfaces.
* Tack cloth (one or two).
* Masking tape. Gentle release or safe release depending on surfaces to which it will be applied.
* Clean wiping rags (2 or 5 pound bag).
* 1" wide angular sash cut-in brush (high quality nylon/polyester synthetic bristles for latex paint).
* One or two high density foam rollers to apply Cabinet Rescue™. Also use rollers to apply the primer for the smoothest finish (for primer plan on 2 to 4 foam rollers which will be discarted after each use to avoid cleaning with flammable solvents).
* Small paint tray to reduce paint waste.
OPTIONAL DEPENDING ON NEED
* Epoxy filler to repair chipped laminated surfaces.
* Wood filler or putty to fill defects in "wood" surfaces.
* White alkyd/oil based stain blocking primer for exposed particle board, or to prime over lacquer, shellac and varnishes.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO ACHIEVE A "LIKE NEW"
REMODELING JOB
* Set of new self closing door hinges . Old hinges should not be painted!. Reasons why?: 1. After aging 10 or more years, the plastic spring retainers dry out, crack an release the springs (doors wont self close). 2. Painted hinges will look like "painted hinges" detracting from the desired "like new" paint job.
* Template(s) to properly locate door and drawer pulls and knobs if these are being added to the remodeling job.
* 3/16" diameter drill bit designed for cutting through laminates and plactics to avoid chipping hole openings.
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